zuul racehound review


The weather hasn’t been cooperating here so I haven’t had a lot of time to fly but after putting about 20 batteries through Hovership’s ZUUL Racehound I can say this thing kicks ass.

I think most quad frames if tuned correctly will fly very similar from one brand to another so we will focus more on features, durability and build.
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For an FPV addict like me, the worst thing that could happen is that you break something in a crash and have to bench your quad while you wait for replacement parts. The more I crashed the ZUUL the more I fell in love with it. This thing is a beast! I’ve flown full speed into an iron gate, smashed into trees, cut countless branches, landed on concrete, ran into swing sets and barrel rolled straight into the ground.  Any of these crashed would have benched my QAV250. The worst thing that happened in all these crashes were some broken props.

The secret to the Racehound’s insane durability are the folding arms.  They act like crumple zones in a car.  Unlike quads with fixed arms, all impacts are absorbed directly to the frame, fragile electronic parts and motors.  The folding arms are like dampeners that soften the impacts before the energy is transferred to the quad itself.  I was a bit skeptical in the beginning but I can tell you for sure that it works.


In part 2 of this review, we looked at the build.  The ZUUL Racehound is overall a pleasure to build.  The super wide body makes it easy to layout components and all the holes on the top plate makes mounting easy.  There are two positions you can place the screws for the arms, folding and fixed.  I highly recommend using the folding holes.  Even if you never plan on folding the arms to make it easier to transport.  You can adjust the tension of the arms by adjusting the tightness of the bolts.


The Racehound is so smooth.  I reused all the electronics from my beat up QAV250 except the ESC’s and a new Naze32 board.  On the QAV250 I could never get a jello free recording on the Mobius even when using Luminier’s camera vibration damping plate.  Not only did this not work, the rubber bobbins split in half on the first crash.  The video above I basically just zip tied the Mobius on the top plate and was able to get jello free video.

I’m not sure what it is about the frame, maybe the 265mm size, no matter what PIDs I used I never noticed any oscillations.  Even when descending the quad felt really steady.


After all my horrendous crashes, the Racehound is still flying flawlessly.  Besides a few scratches, the carbon fiber is all in tact.  If you are looking for a strong, durable, upgradeable and small FPV racing quadcopter frame, this should be on top of your list.  For $95 Hovership’s ZUUL Racehound gets a highly recommended rating from me.







20 responses to “HOVERSHIP ZUUL RACEHOUND REVIEW | PART 3: Flying”

  1. Charles Avatar

    Great read…thank you. I think I’m going to try this for my first build.

  2. FlightClub Avatar

    Awesome! You’ll love this frame. It can handle so much abuse. I just swapped out the 12a Afro ESCs with BL20A ESCs and Cobra 2204 1960kv motors. It’s a beast now. http://fpv-flightclub.com/product/bl20a-esc/

  3. David Avatar

    When you switched the ESC’s and motors, what battery are you running now?

    1. FlightClub Avatar

      i’m running 4s on the bl20a and 2204 1960kv’s. it’s a little beast now!

  4. Troy Avatar

    Thanks for all the info. Your site is super helpful for the newbie to multirotors like me.
    How has the camera held up protruding out the front?
    So you would recommend this over the QAV 250 hands down now?
    My intension is to build a multi rotor for fpv racing and photography. Sort of dual purpose. I have a go pro. Will the race hound support a go pro?
    Thanks again!

    1. FlightClub Avatar

      I have smashed into several trees but the camera keeps on ticking! Just be sure to use zip ties to mount the FPV camera and not screws. That way when you hit something the zip ties just pop off instead of cracking the camera board with screws. The frame depends on what you want. If you are a beginner I would say go with the ZUUL because this SOB is tough! I’ve crashed this in ways that would have disintegrated the QAV250. If you are racing and can fly without crashing every battery pack, go with the QAV250. The frame is not as tough but it’s simple so it’s very light hence it’s faster.

      I have both frames and if I were brand new getting into quads again I would have gone with the ZUUL…just because it’s so tough.

  5. jason Avatar

    When is your build video going to be ready

  6. jason Avatar

    when is your build video of Zulu racehond going to be ready

    1. FlightClub Avatar

      it’s in the books. still waiting on motors before I make the video. Cobra 2100kv race motors should be here next week.

  7. jason Avatar

    I want to build one for my first build but need your video to follow and parts listing looks easy when you can follow your videos are probably easiest to follow

    1. FlightClub Avatar

      hi Jason, send me a note

  8. Lou sanchez Avatar
    Lou sanchez

    What props are you using with the 1960kv and planning to use for the 2100kvs?

    1. FlightClub Avatar

      i’m running 5040 on 4s for both motors. of course the 2100kv will have more thrust. perfect combo for me right now. I tried 6045 props (on the 285mm frame) on 4s and it was too much for me.

  9. Simon Avatar

    Hi, thank you for your great posts and store. I just ordered a Zuul for my first build. Any news on the build video? Looking forward to it! Cheers!

  10. Ken Avatar

    Does the video cable on the output of the VTx cause reduction in range or video quality?

    1. FlightClub Avatar

      Yes it does. i use fly with the antenna mounted directly on the vtx now. just make sure you brace the SMA connector at the vtx with zip ties or the 3D vtx shield.


  11. ed Avatar

    HI hey I like the way you build your quads I would like to know to go about getting a custom built 265 racehound from you ty

    1. FlightClub Avatar

      Hi Ed, I have one built right now. I just had time to list it yet. I’ll send you an email.

  12. Patrick Haughton Avatar

    is there a reason you moved away from the 2204 2300kv motors? I thought at first it was the ECS but you’ve used them in combination on the QAV250 build.

    1. FlightClub Avatar

      Hi, I still use the 2300kv in most of my builds. I use the 2100kv when I want a crazy fast 4s setup.

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